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"Pure Water Fit To Drink"

Water Filter Installation & Maintenance

for Kitchen Units

 

 

NOTE: Below are instructions to replace a water filter cartridge or to install a water purifier.  The description of water filter installation and maintenance is for our Heavy Duty Water Purifying Systems.  (The SlimLine SpaceSaver models are done similarly to the HeavyDuty CounterTop units, but the cartridges would be described differently.)

 

Cartridge Replacement

A housing is opened by grasping the long part, the cylinder, with one hand while holding the base (or the mounting bracket) with the other; then unscrew it.  If you are holding the unit with the base down, turn the cylinder counterclockwise; if the base is at the top, turn the cylinder clockwise.  If the cylinder is stuck, use the hard plastic wrench. 
 
To replace a cartridge, remove the cartridge from the housing.  Check to see the location of any remaining rubber gaskets. If one has remained attached at the far end of the cylinder, it will take needle nosed pliers, a knife or some other long narrow object to dislodge it.  One left stuck in the base is easily pulled off.

Single Unit or 1st Housing of a Dual Unit (or 2nd Housing of a Triple)

With new systems, the cartridges may or may not be already installed by the company.  After a year to a year and a half, depending on consumption and quality of the source water, it will be time to change a cartridge.

With a single unit there is only one housing, so no possible confusion about cartridge location.  In a "Dual" system, it is normally the KDF & Carbon (or KDF & Alumina) cartridge that goes in the first housing where the water enters the system. 

 
One end of a BLUE KDF/Carbon cartridge is tapered with a visible white sediment filter just inside that end.  The wider end has no outflow of water -- just some little slits for inflow.  It is important to put this cartridge into the unit in the proper direction. 

The cartridge should be placed with the tapered open end (the end with the sediment filter) fitted onto the circle inside of the base of the housing (where the water flows in and out).  The wider end of the cartridge then will be at the enclosed far end of the cylinder (the long portion of the housing).  

 
Place the cartridge in either the cylinder or on the base.  Once the cartridge is seated, reattach the cylinder to the base, making sure that the cartridge is aligned on the posts at each end, and that the O-ring is in place for a good seal. Keep the O-ring lubricated for prolonged life. (The company suggests petroleum jelly. Olive oil could also be used.)
 
If you insert this cartridge wrongly, there will be little or no water flow through the unit.  If that should happen, just open the housing  again, and switch the cartridge to go the proper direction.  There will have been no harm to the cartridge.
 

(NOTE: If you have chosen the cartridge with KDF & Alumina for additional fluoride removal, that cartridge is WHITE and untapered.  Look for the end with the white sediment filter, and place that end of the cartridge on the circle in the base.)

 

2nd Housing of a Dual Unit (or 3rd Housing of a Triple Unit)

With a new system, the carbon block cartridge may come already in the unit, or it may be shipped outside of the housing and wrapped to protect it from cracking in shipment.  This cartridge should be replaced after a year or so, depending on consumption and quality of the source water.
 
The carbon block cartridge goes in the second housing in a dual, or the third housing in a triple unit, (the one with the outflow, connected to the faucet).  This cartridge may be black (with the carbon exposed), or it may have a white mesh on the sides of it.

Avoid touching the surface of the sides with bare hands.  Handle it by grasping the plastic ends.  Use a clean cloth or clean plastic wrap or glove if it is necessary to grasp the sides.  (Reason: You want to avoid leaving bacteria on the carbon's surface from the hands.  The bacteria are too large to get through to the inside of the filter, but if a colony grows on the carbon's surface, it can produce some toxins.)

 
With this carbon block cartridge, the direction it is inserted does not matter.  Place it at first in either the cylinder or on the base.  Once the cartridge is seated, reattach the cylinder to the base, making sure that the cartridge is aligned on the posts at each end, and that the O-ring is in place for a good seal.

The center of the carbon block cartridge is hollow, and it is open at both ends. Here the water will come into the outer edges of the housing and be forced through the surface of the filter into the center, and then flow out of the base end of the housing to the outflow faucet.

 

NOTES ABOUT CARBON:

~ Run water through the system for a minute or so to clear out any carbon powder before collecting water for consumption from new cartridges.  This is carbon dust remaining from the processing of the carbon.  It is not harmful, and will be washed out in just a minute.

~ Avoid running hot water through carbon. It can significantly shorten the useful life of the carbon.

~ Tiny microscopic air bubbles are released from solid carbon until all the carbon has been saturated with water. These air bubbles may give the appearance of cloudiness in the water drawn, but are no cause for alarm.  If this cloudiness occurs, it usually subsides within a few days.


New Water Filter Installation

A 90 Day Warranty form is available by email for a customer to submit IF desired.  It is NOT necessary to register for this warranty which covers defects in manufacturing.

 
The company tries to be sure all connections are tight before shipping, but there may need to be additional tightening of connections by the installer.  It is common in any plumbing situation to have to tighten up connections to get a good seal and prevent leaking.    

Some purchasers actually hire a plumber to install their system (especially the under counter ones).  That usually costs another $75 or so.  Still, anyone with the ability to do basic household tasks can install and maintain one of our systems.

Once your unit is in service, you should have good water for 1 to 1 1/2 years or so before needing to change cartridges (which, of course, are available at WaterUS.com). 

 
The housings should last for many years.  You will occasionally want to replace the diverter and inlet hose, and eventually the spout, on a countertop system; or the hoses and faucet on an under counter system.

 

CounterTop Systems  

Our countertop units have an inlet hose with a "diverter" on one end that connects to the faucet of the kitchen sink.  The normal aerator already on your faucet is replaced with the new diverter which has a built-in aerator of its own. 

The threads of one faucet can vary from another's, so thread adaptors are provided with your unit.  Simply unscrew the current aerator and screw on the diverter, using a thread adaptor if necessary.  Tighten enough to prevent leakage from the diverter when the water is turned on.

The water purifier is placed at the side of the sink, so the attached spout dispenses the water over the sink.  There is a small pin on the front of the diverter that is pulled out to open the valve insider and route COLD WATER to the unit. 

DO NOT RUN HOT WATER THROUGH THE SYSTEM.  Hot water can damage and shorten the life of carbon.

There could gradually be some scale build-up in the diverter.  If the diverter pin begins to stick due to scale, just disconnect the whole diverter assembly, and soak it in some white vinegar to dissolve the scale.

 

UnderCounter Systems

The water purifier is placed under the sink.  A "saddle valve" (also called a "needle valve") assembly is attached to the cold water line by wrapping it around the line and bolting it in place.  Then the small bar that serves as a handle for opening and shutting the valve is turned clockwise to penetrate the cold water line with the needle, through which the water will be drawn.  Once the line is pierced, the valve can be opened or shut by turning the little handle one way or the other.

A 1/4" "pex" hose is to be connected to the inlet of the system at one end and to the saddle valve at the other end.  Remove the nut (a cylindrical threaded piece with a hole in it) from the saddle valve. Insert the hose through the hole in the nut with the threads toward the end of the hose.

A small brass (or plastic) collar is placed around the hose at this end with the tapered end of the collar toward the connection point.  Then a metal (or plastic) insert may be pushed into the end of the hose.  The collar and insert help hold the hose in place.  Then the nut is screwed in place.  Be sure to make it tight so there is no leakage.

The inlet and outlet hoses are easily connected to the unit with "John Quest" fittings. Just insert the hose in the opening of the fitting, and you're done! The hose will be held in place by the fitting.

To remove a hose (eg., for replacement when the time comes), hold down the collet (the little ring with "teeth") using your fingernail and pull out the hose.

A faucet is provided for installation on the countertop.  It requires about a 1/2 inch hole in the sink top, usually metal.  Many people simply replace a rarely used sprayer, using the hole that is already there for that.  Otherwise a small hole about 1/2 inch in diameter can be drilled for mounting the faucet.

There are washers and a nut to fasten the faucet in place.  It usually takes two people to do this.  One holds the faucet on top, while the other tightens the nut with a wrench from under the sink. 

The outlet hose may be attached to the faucet already. connecting the faucet to the outlet of the water system.  If not the connection is made in the same way as described above for connecting the inlet hose to the saddle valve.

 

Shower Units

To install a shower filter unit, first remove the shower head by unscrewing it from the shower arm, (the pipe that comes out from the wall of the shower).  One end of the shower unit is threaded (Sparkling Spray II) which will screw onto the threaded permanent shower arm pipe. Then the shower head is screwed onto the other side of the shower filter.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ANY OF THESE CONNECTIONS, as it could crack the plastic of the shower filter. Tighten to just the beginning of snugness. Plumbers tape can be wrapped around the inside threads of each connection to prevent leakage, if needed.


If you have any questions, let me know.  CLICK HERE to contact us.

 
Yours, Jon Miller
Natural Health Enterprises

 

CLICK HERE To View Pictures Of Our KDF & Carbon Purifiers

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